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Monday, August 17, 2009


For the last few months, I've been wearing Five Ten's Prisms as my primary rock shoe. When I first got the Prisms, I was skeptical of Five Ten's patented Faceted Edge Technology, in which two sections of the outside edge of the sole in the forefoot are squared off for greater contact with the rock. Was this a gimmick? I mean, who thinks so much about outside edging? Once the shoes were broken in, though, I didn't care if my backstepping performance had improved: I just liked the shoes. They're snug yet comfortable, well-constructed, and they feel super-precise on the kind of small-hold technical climbing that I prefer.

And a funny thing has happened: As I've worn the shoes, I've found myself paying more attention to my outside edging, and maybe feeling a bit more comfortable in a goofy stance on small holds. I'm still curious how well the Prism' faceted edge technology will fare in a resole. Assuming a good resoler can make them work, I give the Prisms a thumbs-up.

Photo: Not making the best use of the Five Ten Prisms' patented Faceted Edge Technology. Moosehorn crags, Utah. Photo by Chris Blackmon.

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