tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-17198800.post116524303917870226..comments2023-10-17T08:20:16.111-06:00Comments on The Mountain World: The Mallorca HypeDougald MacDonaldhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12084708125730430530noreply@blogger.comBlogger3125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-17198800.post-83847051559185241032006-12-06T14:09:00.000-07:002006-12-06T14:09:00.000-07:00dougald, you worked in the publishing industry, yo...dougald, you worked in the publishing industry, you know embellishment and hype because the bottom line is to ... sell magazines, right. anyway, the conditions do make the route, that's why alaska grades are, well alaska grades and yosemite sandbagging is well known. 15a should be 15a in spain, england, or tanzania, but 15a at 18k feet is something else entirely. so my point is, f the magazines, it is hype on their part, and if the climb is 15a leaning towards 15b because of the environment of the climb, so be it. sharma will put up something new anyway. i would guess this one goes unrepeated, i mean 100 dunks? f that. love, ebombAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-17198800.post-56957256521478894812006-12-04T14:53:00.000-07:002006-12-04T14:53:00.000-07:00Obviously, if a mandatory solo is 5.15a, it's goin...Obviously, if a mandatory solo is 5.15a, it's going to be much harder to repeat than a bolted 5.15a. But is it 5.15a? Precisely because he can't frig it, Sharma can't objectively compare his experience of this route with other extremely difficult climbs he has done. However, the main point I was trying to make is that, while Sharma may not really know how hard it is, the climbing media definitely don't know, and they shouldn't be so quick to label any new climb the "hardest." Ultimately, a firm grade will have to wait for repeats. And with this one, more than most, that will take a long time!Dougald MacDonaldhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12084708125730430530noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-17198800.post-84345379203241203102006-12-04T13:57:00.000-07:002006-12-04T13:57:00.000-07:00Yeah, but because you cant frig it that means it h...Yeah, but because you cant frig it that means it has to be harder than a route of the same tech grade. Therefore it may indeed be the hardest route (but still 15a)Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com